Erg Chigaga

In Zagora and M'Hamid I was previously, twice, but never visited sand dunes Erg Chigaga.

This time I wanted go until Erg Chigaga and see the famous dune, L'Habidia or La grand dune as it calls and about which someone says it is 300 meters high. But I had difficult to believe it because between other one other source calls Erg Chigaga for "Disney Dunes".
Some people even claimed that in Erg Chigaga are living Nomads, but I have not seen one Nomad there. I have talked with locals there who said that some Germans built a school for Nomad children, but because there are not any more some Nomads, the school is empty and closed.

From M'Hamid to the Algerian border it is about 70-80 km and area consists partly of Hamada (stones) and partly of sand dunes. 
Before you get there you drive through a landscape of Hamada most. The landscape is a bit hilly, and also there are the occasional oasis. It is also there a real Saharan lake Iriki, but it is dry now without the water.

 

We went to M'Hamid where we stayed at the hotel and next morning we drove by 4x4 into the desert over  Hamada and low sand dunes. On the way we saw camels, sheep and goats, made even short stop in one nice oasis there.

After 2 hours we arrived to the erg, and I could declare just as I heard and read, so this "damned" dune may even be only 90 meters. The hight of 300 meters is probably only some vague argument for to have tourist to go to Erg Chigaga because most of them any way go just to Erg Chebbi.

The size is about the same, 40 km verso 30 km long and 15 km verso 10 km wide therefore Erg Chebbi is a bit narrower, but higher, the highest dune is about 150 m.

In Erg Chigaga are only campsites, no hotels. 

I was there only during the day, got a good lunch and then walked a little in dunes. They are only yellow, not as in Erg Chebbi where they change the whole time color which mostly is pink with different hue.

Just before we approached the dunes there were various shrubs and plants, it almost felt like a short growing forest. Strange it was almost on some way.

Back to M'Hamid we were going along sand dunes and it was quite interesting trip.

Wonder if this poor dead camel where placed there for the tourists so they have something "exciting" to look at or if he really have died there and only no one took away him. But think maybe it was there as tourist attraction only.

Next morning we took a walk through M'Hamid and it was interesting to know, that there one day is souk for only women and other day only for men. I mean sellers, one day women, other day men.
I was wondering also why locals there had black teeth, almost every one had it. If they paint them or what it is. Strange any way, I have never before saw something like that in Morocco.

But I liked M'Hamid more years before, it was more deserted town when I was there first but even second time, in the year 2000 and then 2005. Much more exciting it was then than now. But of course, everything is changing so even there.

And of course the famous sign. It is from M'Hamid to Timbouctou only 50 days while from Zagora 52 days.

So it means that for the camel to go approximately 100 km it takes 2 days.
So to Timbuktu it is from here 2500 km.

By the way, my big dream is to go one day to Timbuktu and it would be funny but also difficult to go by camel.
And any way, I have to wait many years  before it will be possible to visit this fascinating town, but I hope, one day it will be done ☺

Even Zagora is bigger than 6 years ago when I was there last time and how I enjoyed it 11 years ago now I do not like it at all. It is so pity but I am glad to be there then and saw it as it was, small nice exciting town.

Old painting in Erg Chebbi, behind Taouz

This time I wanted to see old painting in the rock I heard about that they are behind Taouz, the last town in Erg Chebbi where the paved road ends. I had only normal car but it was possible to go on the piste there even if once I got stuck in the sand but managed to come out anyway. I was watching camels who were grazing there around and forgot to be a little careful where I run.

 
There is only the desert with mountains, small sand dunes, salt dry lakes, small wonderful oasis, river bed, short said an exciting area which continue until Erg Chigaga. It is about 250 km of only pure desert where you can find still here and there genuine Nomads living with theirs goats and sheep and camels of course.

 

 

 

 

It was then to climb up a bit to get to the rocks where it was this ancient carvings on. There were right so many such animal drawings, wonder only why just on the ground, if there once was some floor of any building or why. Normally such are carved on the wall, but as said, here they were on the ground - floor.

Some "funny scallywag" have, however, drawn and therefore destroyed the picture of this animal, quite terrible it is that people make such things and think they are funny.

It was really nice area there, wonderful view overall so I wished to have 4x4 and drive there everywhere. But I hope one day I can explore the whole here a little more than only this small piece of the desert here.

On the way back I have also visiting remains of old Kasbah Taouz. It was pretty much left out of the kasbah and really interesting to see it. I could see how it was then at the time. It was not that big but still got glimpses of it.