Since I was a girl my dream was to see a properly desert, even if I was once, many years ago in Tunisia and it was only one short trip to the desert due it was not so usual to rent a car and drive alone. So that trip I did by charter bus actually. In Egypt I was not driving in the desert so much, it was mostly to see all those marvelous temple and treasure from ancient Egypt.
So our first trip from Agadir was right towards Western Sahara, but we ended only in Guelmim, farther we not came because I was stupid and believed 2 German people turning from there and saying there was nothing to see.
Gulemim that time was not so big, one small and nice desert town, the port to the desert. There were not so much to see of the architecture, but camel souk was really interesting and town actually also and the life too.
Not so many restaurants that time, only a few small cafes where we got a dinner. We could have a camel meat but I was a little afraid of to eat it, I not know why, but I was. So I took chicken instead. There outside sat some boys and wanted have money of course. But owner of the cafe said to us to not give them anything because they would go to buy a shoe cream and sniff it, as drugs.
We found there Hotel de Ville so we stayed there over night. Quite good hotel, small of course, the room was OK and clean. But the door to bathroom was missing there and what worse was that toilet self was positioned so that it had a view right into the room and from the room right to the toilet. I did not like much, there was no curtain there either. But then I went to the cupboard, took out the door and covered the entrance to the bathroom, so I had a door clearly and completely.
That time I was naive and believed everything they said and showed to us. At morning came to us one man and ask if he can show us one nice place and if we want visit one man just coming from Sahara by camels. We thought it can be funny so we followed him to one oasis 10km from Guelmim. The oasis was quite large and very nice.
We come to a Nomad tent behind one wall where it was sitting one man in blue jalaba. He invited us to his tent, to drink a mint tea with him.While he prepared tea we were talking about everything possible, he asked us how it is to fly with such "big bird" that he not understand how it is possible, that the plane can have so many people on board and fly anyway. We believed he mean that he really not understand, so we explained for him how it works and so.
He told us that he came right from the Sahara with his camels (25 pieces) which he would sell the next Monday, buy goods and go back to his family in the Sahara.
Then he showed us a big chest with things he took with him from Sahara.
There were all sorts of things, knives and sabers and jewelry and other
things. He said we do not need to buy anything, just watch, but if we
want so we can choose anything and pay what we think. But he could
nothing about money, because they not exist in the Sahara.He is used to bartering the things, such as a ring costing one kilograms of rice, or the knife 2 kg flour etc.. And we believed in what he said ...
Anyway I chose one nice Tuareg compass and my friend one small nice saber. I got actually from Blue man one funny ring signifying health, luck and love and as a present. Maybe he could buy more rice from those money he got from us, haha.
After we have left him and oasis, we began laugh for that we believed in him, stupid we, but, we have also thought that not every day we are sitting in a Nomad tent, or?
Since then I wish to come back and have with me rice and flour and other goods in exchange of his jewelry and such. of course it was never done, because next time we came to Morocco we had other destinations, and we would surely never find our blue man again, "because he turned back to his family in Sahara" LOL.
After that we meet so many other blue men who wanted to show us theirs "treasure chest" so we only laughed.
Our travel went then to Tafraoute, one wonderful place. I see still in front of me the road down to the town. It was afternoon and the sun would soon go down. But before it did it has highlighted the whole valley and everything around with pink color, also the palms were pink, just everything. Incredible beautiful it was.
We drove around one well where 2 girls with donkeys were to fetch water, they almost were only pink also.
We stopped with them, they laughed, a little timid they were also, I think. We "talked" a little with them, I got to take a picture also, without to pay anything. They asked if I have some sweet, but I had only "salivin" such Swedish sugar free pastille so I gave them, they tasted it but not liked it, because it was not really "bonbon".
When we approached us the city, all pink houses were in fact in sunset still rosier. Wonderful, I can not describe it. It was interesting rocks and stones there, such as stroked, other than normal.
At morning after breakfast we drove a little around the area. It was really wonderful and I regretted I could not stay longer, but we had to continue at afternoon for our next stage was towards Taroudant were we make other overnight stop. After that we would go via Marrakech to Zagora and M'Hamid, and possibly even to Erg Chigaga, so we had long way before us. But of course we had also many days for such trip.
But we never saw those stones painted of a Belgian artist, Jean Verame, who took advantage of those stones and painted them in blue. We saw only this white stone or what was that.
We have gone to Marrakech, the road was alright though not so wide, but it was a little interesting, a little deserted. We stayed in Chichaoua, a small village where we took coffee and looked at the market which was just across the road. Little donkeys were there and it looked funny. What he was searching after in the stones?
Then we continued to Marrakech where we stayed a few days. Apart from visits to the Bahia Palace and other sights so we also went to the souk. So many things overall, incredible. It was really big souk and we had a compass with us so it was pretty easy to find out then.
Of course we have also been at Djemaa el-Fnaa where the life was fun to watch, but actually we were not so much interested of all "show" like snake charmers and other things locals did for to entertain all tourists.
That time the town was not so big as it became later and outside the wall it was as you see on the picture below. More genuine and exciting.
We continued to Ouarzazate which was 250 km from Marrakech over Atlas and Tizi n'Tichka, up and down, but it went quite good. Suddenly we have been stopped by a man who stood with his car and repaired it or what he did. He asked us if we go to Ouarzazate and if we can be so kind and go to a filling station in the old Ouarzazate and find a man called Yussef so he can send someone to help with the car. Logically, we said yes, we'll go there.
When we arrived in Ouarzazate we found the place quite easily and even Yossef, in blue jalaba LOL. When I saw him I understood what it was question about - one other Blue Man who want show us his treasures. So I gave him quickly the message from his brother and gone away.
Of course he wanted invite us into his family to drink a tea and show us what he has. I only laughed, the car of his brother was of course not broke down at all, the man there only chased tourists for to show theirs "treasures", and sell.
Wonder how many "Blue men" are in Morocco, or rather how many Blue men are genuine and how many fake LOL.
I liked Ouarzazate even if it is sure newly rebuilt part of the town where we stayed at hotel. The hotel was up on the hill so we had a wonderful view over the town. But we only let our luggage there and gone to explore the all there.
First we wanted anyway go to ksar Ait BenHaddou before it would be dark, it was not so far from the town.
Wonderful it was there, fortunately it was or unfortunately no water in the river so we could go without problem. We not saw any bridge so if it was water there we would need to wade, it would be funny.
I thought it was from there the filming of "The sheltering sky" was. And I was curious at those small aisles which was there, but it was not this town from the movie. Never mind, it was nice, interesting pretty well.
When we arrived, two girls came to us and wanted have money. I said no, no work no money. So they said they can be our guide, but I answered we do not need any guides, only if she cannot show us something very interesting. And we gone away from them. But one, she followed us the whole time and talked and talked. French moreover and I cannot French I said to her in English.
When we came down, we gave her some dirham then in any case. The other girl came to us and also wanted to have money, but I denied, because she not did nothing for to earn them. Suddenly she ran somewhere and after a while she was back with one flower. Well, she got the money, too. Both were funny so they deserved some dirhams anyway.
Back to Ouarzazate we made also stop and gone look at Kasbah of Tifoultoute, it was a bit destroyed, but anyway interesting to see. And wonderful view from there over countryside and even until Ouarzazate.
And therefore also of curiosity I could see down to some houses how they were built and looked inside.
At evening when we were going to search after some restaurant we met a group of boys. Such mischievous boys, they were going after us the whole way the whole time shouting at us without stopping. In the end, my friend turned up and shouted for fun in a fun way for them. They were taken by surprise because they certainly were not expecting to like this happens, stopped, and then they disappeared just in all speed. LOL.
Next day around lunch time we packed our things and continued our trip to the desert. On the way to Zagora we drove towards Agdz and as I saw on the map it would be a little up and down, but had no idea that it was much up and down, almost more than over Tiz n'Tichka.
Well, it was beautiful, the mountains and hills and on other side straight down where I saw a car which was falling there. We drove then through Agdz and continued into the Valley Draa which was beautiful.
One Kasbah next to other, thrilling. I wanted to see how it looks inside, from outside it looked nice, but what about inside? I tried imagine how it could be, probably not so nice and comfortable.
To Zagora we arrived around 4 pm and began to search for hotels that we found at the end of Zagora after we crossed the river, where there was even water, not much, but it was. The hotel was in the style of the Kasbah and also have the name Kasbah Asmaa. Luckily they had available room, a small simple but very nice and comfortable room with view of the garden and the hill. Over the road it was "parking place" for camels so we went to watch them. Bosse began to feed them with sugar and they liked it, strange.
We walked around when I saw the sign "Timbuktu for 52 days" so I started to plan our next trip, but somehow Bosse protested that he refuse.Well, ride the camel I do not know, but I want to get there once. I've already found on the Internet some travelogue written by one German who rode camel to Timbuktu and described the journey which sounded very exciting.
In any case one day I want to go to Timbouktu, but it can take time before it will be possible. It is not so easy to take us to Mali as to Morocco. Or not so difficult maybe, but flight will cost a lot and ...
Well, now we were in Zagora and next day we would go to M'Hamid and Erg Chigaga or as close as possible for to look at the sand dunes. Timbuktu have to wait ☺
After breakfast we drove in direction M'hamid, about 90 km from Zagora. After 20-30 km it was the first sand pile, dunes Tinfou, very small. The dunes were about 1 km from the road, a funny view, like someone poured a bucket of sand on the ground. I had binoculars so I watched there and saw a couple of Bedouin tents so we decided to go little bit closer to look.
Suddenly we saw several riders on camels rushing out and ride towards us screaming or what they did.
I took quickly a picture, Bosse turned the car and drove away before they would reach us. When riders saw that we are back on the road they stopped, turned around and went back to sand dunes.
If we knew then what it was about, we would not drive so fast from there. But we thought they not want us there and just wanted to chase us away from there.
But as late we understood they wanted have us for to earn money, let us to ride camels, invite to tea in a tent, look at theirs treasures like the blue man in Guelmim.
Well, it was thrilling and I almost feared what would happen if they reached us and .... hahaha, how naive we were, LOL
We arrived to Mhamid and found there Sahara hotel, so we gone there to take a cup of coffee. The hotel consisted of low buildings built of clay, simple as that there was such a mini patio with a few low stools and table. So we sat there. It was quite exciting, the first meeting with nomads and desert, well, man had only seen it in movies, have read about and so suddenly ...
We left hotel and went on something like the street up to where we have not seen houses but only sand. There was a Bedouin tent, in front one donkey and camel. It went to go there by car. Just we went of the car it came one nomad speaking English, quite well. So we started talking, he invited us to drink a tea inside a tent where it was quite hot. Strangely he not showed us treasure chest haha, he only talked about everything possible regarding sand dunes etc.
We took a walk farther ahead to the dunes or rather the pile of sand 30 cm high. Nomad offered us to go by 4×4 and spend the night in sand dunes, but the price was terrible high, about 2 thousand DH. We thanked no and said that we have not money with us. But he said "it does not matter, you can pay with card".
Nomad in beduin tent and we could pay with card, what for a Nomad he is? In such case I am Nomad too, LOL
He gave not up and asked us to go with him to his uncle who has a shop - but not with treasure, only the trade - hahaha. Nevertheless, we went with him, and his uncle (if it was) offered us everything possible knickknacks. I said to him that in fact we can not buy anything because we have no place and they have also to understand that if we everywhere bought anything we would soon run out of money and would be sitting there in the desert only with all things we bought. And try to sell all we bought so we could then go back home.
It began be too much for me, in the end I almost started crying, because I knew that they self not have much and welcome every dirham. So we have leaving fast the shop and M'Hamid also. Took last look at sand dunes and went back to Zagora.
Although on the way back I wanted to make stop in Tamegroute where it would be a great ancient library and underground gates, but somehow I could not stand for this event in M'Hamid, and because we were pretty tired, so I gave up with to look at. Hopefully one other time I can go there.
Back to Agadir we went via Agdz and all of a sudden there was a stop, many police standing along the road. We parked somewhere near the square and went to look what it was for an event and why it was the stop. There was a pile of people and flags everywhere and the middle of the square we saw dancers dance there, if it could call for the dance, because it felt as that dancers were a little lazy or what. Maybe it was meant so, I do not know. There were also a lot of soldiers and cops and red carpet there it was standing one soldier and others went to him and bowed, it was really interesting what was that all. We asked what was going on and were told that it is the king himself, who came to visit the town.
Haha, he knew that we were coming, so he arrived to greet us, too, yeah ☺.
The King Mohammed VI, the current king - Moroccan people like him very much and everyone praises him because he is so very different than his father.
No one can forget the time when they all got raise money at that time when it begans build mosque in Casablanca. Everyone had to give money, even they who had not, so that the king Hassan could build his mosque, though he self had plenty of money and could afford everything yourself.Even the political situation in the former king was not so good neither. This new King is completely different and try to help the country and tries to take down red tape and bribes, and that all will have the opportunity to perform the work for which they studied for, without having to pay for it then.
Then when the ceremony ended we could continue to Ouarzazate. Just at the hotel we stayed we talked with a waiter who told us that he graduated in geology, but unfortunately his parents are poor and thus does not have he the ability to pay I do not know how many tens of thousands dirhams for to be able work as a geologist, so he works as "waiters " instead. He said also that the rights of the new king is trying to build up will take long time of course.
We did not go back the same way so we chose the way via Tazenakht. It was around 300 kilometers but it was good, flat road, no high mountains so it went as well. Along the way was nothing much interesting, only once there were over the road many many goats and sheep and a shepherd, who wanted have cigarettes from me, so I gave him one packet and we could continue. Later afternoon, we were in Taroudant.
I liked Taroudant, nice calm city. Also souk there was very nice, one Arabic and other Berber, much better than in Agadir and not so over touristic as in Marrakech, so it was nice to go and look there. Noone tried to have us buy something, there it was quiet and peace so to speak. Then we sat on the square looking at the people and the life around. Some women began to talk with us, but our problem was the language, no one could English and we not Arabic or French, but funny it was anyway, both for them and for us too.
Then it was only 70 km to Agadir. We drove not too fast, we did not have to rush. Along the way we saw heaps of goats to climb on the trees, unbelievable. Something good they had there to eat or what got them to climb up. I took the picture of them but had to rush fast away, because someone began to shout on me something. Then I understood, what goats had to do in the tree haha - logically, the man there wanted I pay for the picture I took. So we gave him some dirham, and he went away and let us go.
But we saw many goats climbing on the rocks when we were going to Taroudant, so skillful they were.
So were we back in Agadir and thus ended our Moroccan adventure which was beautiful. The day of 11/11 - nice date, we went back to Sweden and to the winter. Wonder if we come back to Morocco again.
